London Fashion Week SS17: Beauty Trend Report, Day 1

Saturday, September 17th 2016 0

House of Holland, Barbara Casasola and more

Today I was backstage at London Fashion Week to see all of the beauty trends before they hit the catwalk. Here's what I found...

Mimi Wade
Make-up by Laura Dominique for MAC Cosmetics
Hair by Bumble and Bumble

Laura’s make-up look was my favourite of the day. Mimi was inspired to use this look after visiting her Grandmother’s house in LA. The house is very eclectic and she wanted to capture a little bit of Hollywood shimmer and glamour.

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The skin was very subtle in this look; Laura described it as “healthy, sporty, shiny skin”. The lids were glossy, giving a real 90’s vibe to the whole beauty look, and creating quite an undone, old-school make-up. She used a mid brown from a new, upcoming MAC palette (the middle shade from the palette on the left) and then deepened it with a more chocolatey matte (the middle from the second palette).  To get this glossy finish, she first applied a big dollop of gloss to each lid with a brush and then spread the formula with her fingers.

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Lips were fresh and scrubbed, creating a blood flow and a healthy look. They were topped with some of the eye gloss and then the top two lipstick shades from the lip palette were used on the cheeks so everything was quite mixed and matched.

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I also noticed Marshayna in the make-up team! She’s always in the Selfridges Birmingham store where I work and her make-up is out of this world. Dominic was there too and he’s fantastic, I’d recommend following him on Instagram @Dominic_MUA because he always shows you new MAC releases before they’re even out.

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Bumble and Bumble created the sweaty hair look for this show. Invisible Oil was buffed into side burns using a shaving brush to slick them down, and then Dry Spun Finish added texture at the roots. No brushes were used whatsoever, this look was all about being messy and grungy.

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Mother of Pearl

Make-up by Ciara O Shea for MAC Cosmetics

This was one of the simplest looks of the day, focusing on a bitten, kissed lip. Ciara, the make-up artist, explained that the girl wearing this collection is so cool that she can style anything out, so this blurred lip is going to work for her. She described this look as either having eaten too much spaghetti or having kissed a boy all night and now the lipstick is smudged; “it’s the good life – eating spaghetti and kissing!”

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Skin was very minimal and models were instead encouraged to “be themselves”. A MAC Brow Gel was used to hold the eyebrows in place and make them look groomed, and then the Conceal and Correct palette was used softly where needed. Ciara said she loves this palette because you can do the entire face without having to change your product. She used a 272 brush.

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To create the blurred lip, Ciara used a Prep and Prime stick underneath a Retro Matte lipstick in Feels So Grand. She said that the Prep and Prime dissolves all of the dryness from this time of year and plumps up the lip. She pushed the lipstick into the lips with her finger, interestingly adding some excess product in the corners of the lips. To finish, she dotted pencil in He Said, She Said around the lips and used a 226 brush to blur the edge.

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Barbara Casasola

Make-up by Alex Box for MAC Cosmetics

Alex Box has always held a special place in my heart and so her sensory beauty interpretation really made my day today.

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Barbara is Brazilian so she is used to the heat, so this in mind her look is fresh and light. This drew on her history of going from on the beach to straight into a night out. Alex was keen to ensure that all girls looked calm, cool and confident and in order to achieve this she said she wanted them to feel relaxed and calm. The skincare preparation process was key, including a shoulder, neck and face massage, ylang ylang oils, rose, patchouli, and lots of other grounding, earthy ingredients to build the relaxation into a feeling. Skin consequently had a nourished texture, and she felt that “if you feel good, you’ll look good”. Packing oils into the skin was key, and eyes were minimal.

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Tiny bits of concealer were used, “hardly anything”, and Face and Body was pressed gently into the skin. I loved Alex’s technique for this; she used the heels of her hands and gently pressed this onto key areas like temples and cheeks. She accidentally called this the “heart of the hand” which I actually thought was a great way of looking at it.

Eyes were minimal; she pressed a tiny bit of orange gloss onto the lids with her fingers.

The lip, as before, was bitten. This, she said, was “worn in and kissed off”. To create this finish she used Diva lipstick mixed with some gloss to create a berry stain. Interestingly, unlike the Mother of Pearl show, Alex almost completely ignored the corners of the mouth, wanting this to have very much worn away.

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Just before models walked the catwalk, Alex pressed a heated linen cloth infused with rose oil into each model’s skin. This created a naturally flushed cheek and gave an air to the make-up of those elements which naturally come from the body. This, she said, is something that you just can’t mimic with make-up.

The devil in the detail – the eyelashes were bare and curled and nothing was fighting with anything in the beauty look.

Henry Holland

Make-up by Isamaya French for MAC Cosmetics

The inspiration for Henry’s beauty look was an outdoorsy, gypsy girl. It was designed not to be overly done; using a classic kohl liner, flushed, healthy cheeks and hardly any foundation but a St. Tropez tan. This was reminiscent of a carefree, gypsy style.

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Eyebrows were groomed using brown mascara, and Waterweight Foundation applied all over the skin. Mascara was minimal and black.

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My favourite thing about the show was Henry’s soundtrack. I only caught the dress rehearsal, but Jentina’s Bad Ass Strippa was blaring and it completely threw me back!

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Some of the show spaces I visited were right by other shows, so I managed to sneak a peek of a few more designers’ looks! Here are some short, sweet photos of others that I found along the way…

Richard Malone

Make-up by Megumi Matsuno for MAC Cosmetics

This look was inspired by colours melting together like a sunset.

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A V Robertston

Make-up by Lucy Bridge for MAC Cosmetics
Nails by Christian Louboutin

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Be sure to keep up with me on Instagram @MixedGemsBeauty for Day 3 tomorrow as it happens.

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